Skin Acids 101, Dont' Get Burned

bandwapothecary
Aug 12
3 min read

Acids in skincare might sound scary, but they’re actually some of the most powerful ingredients available when used correctly. From smoothing rough patches to brightening dull complexions and unclogging pores, acids can completely transform your skin—if you know what you're doing.

Let’s break down the good acids, the ones to be cautious with, and how to use them properly in your skincare routine.

The Good Acids: Skincare MVPs

These acids are widely used and generally safe for most skin types when introduced gradually and used with care:

✅ Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

Types: Glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid
Best For: Dullness, uneven texture, fine lines, pigmentation
How They Work: AHAs exfoliate the skin’s surface, encouraging cell turnover for a smoother, brighter look.
Tips: Use 2–3 times a week at night. Follow with moisturizer and always use SPF the next day.

✅ Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA)

Type: Salicylic acid
Best For: Oily and acne-prone skin
How It Works: BHAs are oil-soluble, so they penetrate deep into pores to clear out excess oil and debris.
Tips: Great for spot-treating or using in a serum or toner. Start slow—2–3 times a week—and increase as tolerated.

✅ Hyaluronic Acid (HA)

Best For: All skin types, especially dry or dehydrated skin
How It Works: Not an exfoliant! HA is a humectant that draws moisture into the skin, plumping it up.
Tips: Use on damp skin and lock in with a moisturizer.

✅ Azelaic Acid

Best For: Redness, acne, and pigmentation
How It Works: Anti-inflammatory and antibacterial, it calms irritated skin while gently exfoliating.
Tips: Safe for daily use and even suitable during pregnancy.

The Caution Zone: Acids That Need More Care

These acids can offer benefits but should be used with caution, especially by beginners:

⚠️ Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA)

Use: Deep chemical peels
Risks: Strong and potentially irritating—best left to professionals.
Tips: Avoid at-home TCA peels unless you're trained or under supervision.

⚠️ Phenol

Use: Very deep chemical peels
Risks: Can permanently bleach the skin and carries risk of scarring. Not for at-home use.
Tips: Only used in medical-grade peels under anesthesia. Not for general skincare.

⚠️ Citric Acid (in high concentrations)

Use: Occasionally found in exfoliants or toners
Risks: Can be irritating, especially for sensitive skin.
Tips: Safe in small amounts, but check the formulation—too much can disrupt your skin’s barrier.

How & When to Use Acids Safely

Using acids effectively is all about timing, layering, and moderation:

💡 Start Slow

Introduce one acid at a time, 1–2 nights per week. Let your skin adjust before increasing frequency.

💡 Don’t Mix Everything

Avoid combining multiple strong acids, or layering them with retinol or vitamin C without guidance—it can cause irritation or sensitivity.

💡 Nighttime Is Best

Exfoliating acids like AHAs and BHAs increase sun sensitivity. Use them at night and follow up with SPF during the day.

💡 Moisturize & Protect

Acids can compromise the skin barrier. Always follow with a hydrating moisturizer and sunscreen the next morning.

💡 Listen to Your Skin

If you feel burning, stinging, or see increased redness, pull back. Not every acid works for every person.

Bottom Line

Acids are powerful allies in the world of skincare, but they aren’t one-size-fits-all. The key is choosing the right type for your skin’s needs, starting slow, and using them with care. Whether you’re fighting acne, dryness, dullness, or just want smoother texture—there’s likely an acid that can help you get there.